Billy Joel has made a career singing and songwriting about the Big Apple, his hometown. True, he's technically from Long Island – miles away from midtown Manhattan – but during his youth, the Joel stomped up and down the five boroughs and frequented many establishments even before they became establishments. Elaine's Restaurant, as mentioned in this 1978 song about Bianca Jagger's divorce from Mick, is only one of them, albeit a rather well-known and important one.
Elaine's existed as a beacon of New York City as well as a celebrity hangout between 1963 and 2011 (it was also declared a Living Landmark by the New York Landmarks Conservancy in 2003), when it was closed down for good in 2010 by manager Diane Becker following the death of owner and operator Elaine Kaufman, after her long and illustrious life, at the age of 81. They proceeded to auction off the remaining inventory soon after; everything went, even the kitchen sinks. Becker said, "There's no Elaine's without Elaine."
The legendary eatery hosted the likes of Woody Allen (who shot scenes from his film,
Manhattan, there), Michael Caine, Mick Jagger, and yes, of course, Billy Joel. Located at the corner of 2nd Avenue and East 88th Street, Elaine's hosted Oscars viewing parties where Hollywood stars would get together to watch. Elaine had a reputation for her skill slinging backhanded compliments. She was the quintessential New Yorker, and her brash delivery and attitude often scared other seasoned New Yorkers.
In fact, she had no problem kicking out one customer in favor of seating a favorite. She forbade anyone from eating hamburgers. She threw garbage can lids at annoying paparazzi. She fought with customers. She arm-wrestled writer Norman Mailer. And once she was even arrested for assault after a physical altercation with a customer visiting from the Lone Star State.
New York Post photographer Adam Scull said, "Elaine was loud, pushy, boisterous, tough-as-nails, took shit from NO ONE, including us photographers. She almost always kept us out on the street cooling our heels whilst the likes of Woody Allen, Robert De Niro, and every other famous actor and author kept coming back for dinner night after night. Elaine's was the place to go, mostly because the authors and actors were protected vociferously by Elaine. 'Screw the photographers' I used to hear her say, time and time again, only occasionally allowing just a select few of us in from time to time. Elaine Kaufman was the doyenne of protective restaurateurs. She caved to no one."
As brash as Elaine may have been, she certainly understood the restaurant biz and ran her place like a Swiss clock. What could be better than the atmosphere – the opportunity to knock elbows with writers, actors, musicians, and even politicians? How about the food? Great quality and large portions were Elaine's trademark. She was as generous a host as she was brash to people who bothered her. Her bar and restaurant was more than just a location to go for a good meal, though. It was more like a club, a happening, hopping, jumping night spot amid the scene of New York socialites.
Celebrities and regulars all joined together with those socialites in their mourning the loss of both Elaine and Elaine's after 50 years of service. It's very bittersweet when patrons stroll down memory lane, visiting the places that became the mosaic backdrop of their youth. It happens all over the world when locations like Elaine's, CBGB's, and even
"Tin Pan Alley" in London close their doors forever. Many will say these closings pave the way for new and better establishments to pop up in their stead. Others might even praise the free-market economy. But Billy Joel and the hundreds of others who knew Elaine would wholeheartedly disagree. In another Joel tune, "
Scenes From An Italian Restaurant," Joel sings, "Couldn't go back to the Greasers, best they could do was pick up the pieces." Bittersweet is the right word for it.
I've said it before and I'll say it again. There is wisdom to be found in rock and roll.
Justin Novelli
May 31, 2021
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